In a day of Boulder & Lead, both the men and women now have their final eight competitors who will fight for the three Olympic Games spots on offer to go along with a Boulder & lead world title.Unsurprisingly Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret made the cut, and even made it before setting foot onto the lead wall. A strong Boulder performance meant that she had secured a top eight position before her Lead climb, which she scored 76.1 points on for a 175-point total.Mori Ai of Japan was the only female climber to top the Lead route and with it secured herself second position and a finals spot with 136.9 points.France’s Oriane Bertone had two consistent rounds to progress in third with 133.5 ahead of another consistent performer in Brooke Raboutou of the USA who was fourth.Nonaka Miho of Japan and Jessica Pilz of Austria both reached the same Lead hold, however Nonaka was fifth to Pilz’s sixth due to a better Boulder result.Pilz said: “I thought the Boulder was way worse than the result, but it was just a super hard round. In the Lead I climbed secure and safe so I wouldn’t make any mistakes or slip, so it didn’t feel super nice. I just tried to give my best. A slip can happen at any time, so I just wanted a good result in Lead as it’s my main discipline.“I’m excited for finals. It was one of my big goals and I can’t wait to climb. I will give even more than today. Everyone in finals wants the top spot, but I try to focus on climbing and not the result as the points are difficult to compare and calculate. I just focus on climbing and giving my best.”In opposite ends of the scale in more ways than one, the young Anastasia Sanders of the USA made the top eight despite a low scoring Lead climb whereas the vastly experience Kim Jain of South Korea crept in thanks to a high scoring Lead climbThe women’s final is scheduled for 11 August at 19:00 (UTC+2:00).Full women’s Boulder & Lead results can be found hereJapan’s Anraku Sorato top scored in both Boulder and Lead disciplines to take first place with a score of 184.9.Toby Roberts of Great Britain topped the Lead route, and even had time to get the crowd going twice near the top of the route and is second with 164.7 points.Roberts said: “That felt absolutely incredible. Having had some results that haven’t been going the best the competition tonight is so nice to be in front of this huge crowd and give a really good fight on a nice route. From the Lead final to tonight it’s really nice to be able to get a result I know I am capable of. Being in that moment, the crowd was just electric, it was incredible. I was so in the moment. I felt really good up there so I turned around and gave them a little hype up, I was properly in the moment and I’m really happy.”USA’s Colin Duffy was first out in both Boulder and Lead, and had two very solid rounds scoring 157 points for third spot. Just like Roberts, Duffy was pumping up the crowd, but he waited until his feet were on solid ground before pumping his chest.Anraku will have a teammate in the final as Narasaki Tomoa was fourth ahead of Austria’s Jakob Schubert who had to count on his Lead skills to make up for a below par Boulder display. Schubert topped the route to secure fifth.Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic will join his friend Schubert in the finals in sixth spot above South Korea’s Lee Dohyun in seventh and France’s Paul Jenft in eighth.The men’s final is scheduled for 12 August at 16:00 (UTC+2:00).Full men’s Boulder & Lead results can be found here

Toby Roberts (GBR) competes in the Boulder & Lead semi-finalsPhoto: Lena Drapella/IFSC